It’s been a year since we cruised in saltwater, and we were so happy to be back in shifting tides and currents. Our voyage started a little later than usual so that my sister and I could link it to a road trip that took my parents down the Oregon Coast to celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary and fulfill a long-delayed meetup with my mom’s big sister. Since Memorial Day weekend fell in the center of our sailing window, George and I scooted through the San Juan Islands in a couple of days and headed to the Outer Gulf Islands for some quiet, uncrowded anchorages and close encounters with wildlife.
With a minus-tide swing during the day for most of our trip, we saw lots of shore feeding from all sorts of creatures. My favorite prehistoric-looking birds were particularly successful at snagging lunch in many of our anchorages.
Guillemots, another bird that has become a favorite through our trips to these islands, also entertained us with their fishing antics.
It wasn’t until partway through the trip that racooning dominated the shoreline, with clear steps for catching and enjoying crab: trap, wash, splay, smash, chomp, and clean up.
The animals weren’t the only ones hard at work during our voyage. Even George was impressed by the concrete pour that we sailed past on our way up one of the channels, where the crew were replacing the base for the light marking an exposed rock.
For our part, we enjoyed a relaxing couple of weeks on the water, just watching all of the action. The trip featured a mix of sailing and motoring days, shifting from sun to rain and back. We had one rather bouncy night on a mooring ball during 40 mph gusts, but we were mainly gunkholing, tucking the Blue Mule into tiny, calm coves close to shore. We savored local shellfish, foraged for mushrooms on several islands, and even arranged a geocache adventure with family to a boat access-only island.
Setting out from Bellingham
A kite parade showing our exiting wind angle
The first of several lovely sunsets
A gorgeous breeze to Sucia Island
We were so distracted by fun rocks, an otter surprised us as it scrambled up the path…
…but we caught up with the romp later
Herons surely showing off dance moves
Last point before crossing the Salish Sea into Canada
Proper gunkholing at low tide
Creatures blending in, large…
…and small
A new favorite spot at the head of Bedwell Harbor between the Pender Islands
The Sea Goat’s passage through the Pender Islands might not be Blue Mule approved
All is calm…
…except when doggy visitors pass
That riptide we sailed through looks so much calmer from the rocky shore
Yet the rocks themselves impress
As do the remains of giant trees
Swimming lessons in the open sea
This young eagle landed so close to our kayak…
…I was too close to frame the shot
The otter wanted his closeup too
After fishing, there’s nothing like…
…a nice sand bath
How not to anchor your boat for the night amid 11-foot tide swings
The technique works better for harbor seals
Another lovely breeze
The Sea Goat and George in their element
Feral goat trimming the shoreline
Always hopeful of spotting whales
“Rock sausages” and ferries end up being our largest encounters
Cozy low-tide anchoring in Wallace Island’s Conover Cove
George’s arts-and-crafts creation, with the years of our visits, for the unofficial boat registry on Wallace Island
A popular rock for starfish
Fishing looks so good at low tide…
…until someone else agrees…
…and it’s time to seek cover
Sailing in the sun with a chilly breeze
A close ferry encounter
When the rain stops and clouds lift
Harlequins that may have traveled as far as we did
Calm waters attract curious harbor seals
A still night throughout Clam Bay
George heads for “The Cut,” a decidedly Sea Goat-only passage
A little handwashing before dinner
A final calm night in Canadian waters
Crossing the line back into the U.S.
A welcome-back view of Mt. Baker
Geocaching on Jones Island
Treasure for everyone
A secret waterfall we just discovered in a favorite anchorage
Flathead Lake Sailing School and Sailing Adventure Vacations Learn to sail and get your ASA certifications with George in Montana or the Caribbean. Twice as Tasty Julie's current food blog. Learn how to eat well year-round by preserving, pickling, freezing, dehydrating, fermenting, and more. The JulieBook Julie's poetry blog, now inactive but still full of good reads. Melisse Laing: Art Quilts Think paintings made of fabric.
S/V Nomad Newest live-aboard sailing friends who will be sailing around the world. SV "Submit" Cruising adventures with a Cal Cruising 36 on the U.S. East Coast and in the Bahamas. SV Chinook Montana friends who are now back in local waters after a family live-aboard adventure. Soterion Book a catamaran charter with our friends Rachel and Ben for an amazing sailing and dining experience in the BVI.
Hitch a Ride
To get on a sailboat as crew from Vanuatu to New Caldonia, we did a lot of digging online. If you're interested in putting together your own trip, we recommend these forums and other groups--we used free versions in all cases, but some have paid options that allow better access:
Find A Crew A great place to post extensive details about yourself and your desired trip. Dialogue is limited, though, unless you or the captain pay for the service. 7 Knots Freeform post space in a crewlist. Float Plan Very brief ads that you must email to submit, but traffic is good. Cruisers Forum You must join to view any post, but it's free. Cruiser Log Similar in design and graphics to Cruisers Forum, but this is a separate group. World Cruising Home of the ARC round-the-world rally. The Ocean Crew Link connects boat owners and crew. Couch Surfing Good not only for ride options and boat stays but also advice about islands from locals. Karaka’s Log Info about how to find a ride and be good crew.
it looks like you had so much fun!
That we did! It was a great trip.
A good read but mostly enjoyed the bird and raccoon photos and pictures of and legends with Melissa’s quilts!
Thanks! I had SOO many critter photos this time, it was hard to choose my favorites.
What pure joy. Are you looking away off to retirement and a coastal move? Happy gardening when you get home! ArleneSent from my Galaxy
Thank you! We had such a great time. No long-term plans as yet, but we’ll keep bringing the boat out as often as we can.